The terroir of Finistère satisfies the busy lunchtime diner with two key products, le blé noir and le lait ribot. Both masculine nouns. Blé means wheat and noir means black but the US word for the crop is buckwheat. Buckwheat is not a wheat. In fact, it is not a cereal but a fruit which yields a starchy flour darkened by specks of broken seed coat. In Brittany the flour is made up into savoury pancakes with milk and eggs, and called une galette.
We all
enjoyed our galettes at Crêperie Chez Mamie, at number 4 Impasse de la Gare,
29000 Quimper, France. In fact Mamie's
pancake house is just across the road from the two stations, the bus station
and the railway station. Joined-up
thinking by the Finistère authorities to place the coach and train station on
the same site. Crêperie Chez Mamie
prides itself on being bio, that is organic, and reducing food miles by using
local producers, which it boasts on the reverse of its menus. The service is super-fast if you ask for it,
and full of tourism knowledge if you say you have time to stay and chat. I didn't, so I ate my delicious galette
quickly then headed out for my writing lesson at the écrithèque.
Staying in
the writing and eating theme, our evening meal was at the resto Chez Max, in a
courtyard just beside 8, rue du Parc, 29000 Quimper where the proprietor
devoted himself to our dining and literary tourism needs all evening. Alas, we could not locate the French original
of that stanza from my previous blog post, even though chestnut trees stood
beside the River Odet on the rue du Parc just outside. The challenge remains. Chez Max, in the converted tailor's workshops
of Max Jacob's parents, has its own collection of books and scrapbooks of the
poet and writer. I noticed one diner who
had forgotten she was there to eat; she stayed looking through the archive
material all evening.
French moment
Je voudrais prendre des photos de ce livre, si c'est
possible.
I'd like to
take some photos of this book, if that's OK.
Asking
permission, or saying what you'd like to do is best introduced by using the
conditional mood of the verb vouloir, to want.
Je veux, can seem rather forward of you, so soften it to the more
polite, je voudrais.
Tasting Notes
I chose a
white wine, Quincy (yes, pronounce it: Can-See like Quimper) an AOC from the Centre
region made on the Domaine Roux, many miles upstream on the River Loire. Jean
Claude Roux uses sauvignon blanc grapes to produce a white with a palette that
reminds me of mangosteens, that fruit which is currently finding its way into
superfood drinks in the UK.
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